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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.